White Balance | Exposure Compensation | Scene Modes | ISO | Flash | RAW | Optical vs. Digital Zoom | Contact Us

Digital Camera Features

White Balance
Cameras, whether film or digital, don't know what color temperature the light is that you're photographing in. With film cameras, a photographer had to choose the right film type (Daylight or Tungsten) and then filter the lenses and gel the strobes to correct for anything else. With digital this has become much easier, as you can simply tell the camera what kind of light you're working in. It will then apply that color correction to the processing of the images as you shoot them. The advantage is that you can change the color balance for each situation you encounter without having to change film or filters. The down side is that you need to figure out what that color temperature is. Almost all digital cameras (from compact to pro) have three ways of dealing with this:

 

• Auto White Balance
Auto white balance asks the camera to make the call, often using a combination of methods to determine this. Unfortunately, although the systems tend to be getting better about this, they often have trouble with artificial light, particularly down low in the incandescent range. They can also choose a different color temperature every time you press the shutter button, so you can have color shifting in the same set of images. Because of this, Auto White Balance is often a choice of last resort.

 

 

• White Balance Defaults
Most cameras also let you choose between Incandescent, Fluorescent, Daylight, Flash, Cloudy, Shady or other settings that are already built into the camera. The advantage here is that the color temperature is fixed (perhaps 4200K for Fluorescent), so the color won't shift. That's fine for daylight, where often the Cloudy or Daylight setting can be a great default for any daylight shooting. With artificial light, though, it's probably rare that you'll be working in light that matches that Kelvin setting exactly. That's why white balance preset is so important.

 

 

• White Balance Preset
When you want to make sure that you're capturing a scene as close to neutral as possible (No color in clean whites, black and grays) then you need to use White Balance Preset. Although different camera manufacturers institute this in different ways, they all do the same thing. You tell the camera you want to take a white balance preset reading (usually through the menu), point the camera at a neutral target (a photo gray card is best, but a white sheet of paper will get you close) and then tell the camera to take a reading of that target. It reads the color temperature of the light striking the target and records that, which it can then use in processing the photos taken after that. Remember, though, that if you load a custom white balance preset into the camera, it will apply that setting to all photos you shoot from that point on. If you move into an area lit with a different light source, be sure and change your white balance settings accordingly.

 

Top

Exposure Compensation
Another feature common to most digital cameras is the ability to choose to overexpose or underexpose the image. This is called exposure compensation, and is indicated by "+" (plus) and "-" minus signs on the camera. Plus adds exposure to make the scene lighter, minus reduces exposure to make the scene darker. This is a quick and easy way to take more creative control over the camera. With a compact camera that gives constant feedback through the LCD, it's easy to dial-in the change and then see on the back of the camera the effect it's having. If you like that, then take the picture. If you don't, try a different setting.

 

Top

Scene Modes
Most compact digital cameras offer Scene Modes, and some of the digital SLRs do as well. All that Scene Modes do is let the photographer tell the camera what kind of picture they're trying to take. The Scene Mode will then make changes in how the camera exposes, focuses, sets white balance, adjust exposure or sharpening or other settings to try to help the photographer make a better photo. In other words, Scene Modes give a photographer more creative control over their photos without having to know a lot about exposure and other advanced techniques. Here are a few common ones, and what they attempt to do. If your camera does not have scene modes you may still be able to get the same results manually.
Download our PDF Scene Mode Cheat Sheet to learn how. (92K)

 

• Portrait
In this mode, the camera offers little depth of field, meaning that the subject may be the only part of the image that's in focus. Most portrait modes accomplish this simply by taking the camera into an aperture-priority exposure mode with a wide aperture.

 

 

 

 

 

• Landscape
By setting the focus to infinity, this mode prevents anything in the foreground (including windows or tree limbs) from confusing the focusing system.

 

 

 

 

 

• Night Portrait or Party mode
By turning on the flash but letting the shutter speed go as low as needed for the available light, you can get a subject that's lit by the flash as well as an exposure slow enough to hold detail in the background. The down side is that camera shake can still be a problem, resulting in blurry photos.

 

 

• Night Landscape
Turns off the flash and lets the camera shoot as slow as needed for the available light. Also, the focus is set to infinity (that's what "landscape" tells the camera). You're best off using a tripod with this mode.

 

 

• Panorama
Helps you shoot a series of photos for a panorama by locking the exposure for the duration of the photos to keep the look even across the group. The other step that generally happens here is that the camera will "ghost" an image over the previous one to help you get the correct amount of overlap.

 

 

• Sunset
If you choose this you're telling the camera you're shooting a beautiful sunset. It then will choose a warm white balance setting to keep those pretty colors, and perhaps add a bit of saturation as well.

Top

ISO
With a digital camera, the correct term would really be "sensitivity," since ISO is really a carryover from film days. The idea's the same, though ­ if there's not much light or you need to raise your shutter speed or f/stop, then you need to raise the ISO (sensitivity) of the camera. The key here is to remember that as you raise the seinsitivity, you also increase the amount of digital noise (blockiness or grainy look to shadow areas) and start to lose color saturation. The rule of thumb with all digital cameras is the lowest ISO a camera is capable of gives the best quality. Only raise the ISO if you need to.

Top

Flash
One of the most common techniques professional photographers use seems backwards - turn off the flash in low light and turn it on in bright light. What they're trying to do in low light is to keep a natural look by not adding light that's not there. It means the camera will need to shoot at a slower shutter speed, but if you can manage it, the photos can be nice.

Top

 

If a subject is in good light, but that light's to the side or from behind, then the shadows in the person's face can be too dark.

Top

 

Turning the flash on in that case will add what's called "fill" flash, as it helps fill-in the shadows, and make for a better photo. Lastly, if your camera offers the control to adjust the amount of flash, you may find that turning it down a bit (minus 1/2 to 1 stop) gives a more pleasing look.

Top

RAW
More advanced compact cameras and all digital SLR's offer the ability to save the image file in a RAW format (see Section 1, Terminology, for more on this). Each manufacturer tends to have their own proprietary format for this, and specialized software is needed to open them. Using this format will add to your workflow, but allows you great flexibility in being able to make choices in white balance, sharpening, noise reduction and other image processing parameters at the computer, rather than during the shooting.

 

Optical vs. Digital Zoom
Optical zoom refers to what the lens of your camera is capable of. Digital zoom is simply taking a piece of the image captured with the optical zoom and enlarging and re-sizing it in-camera. It's about the same thing you could do in a computer, and, in fact, that's how I prefer doing it.

Top

White Balance | Exposure Compensation | Scene Modes | ISO | Flash | RAW | Optical vs. Digital Zoom | Contact Us


Digital Cameras
Camera Features
Photo Techniques
Computers
Downloading
Back Up
Color Management
Image Browsers
Editing
Printing/E-mail